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   S AND S2 cam tensioner failure-and how to change
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   Author  Topic: S AND S2 cam tensioner failure-and how to change  (Read 20737 times)
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S AND S2 cam tensioner failure-and how to change
« on: Apr 27th, 2007, 8:35am »

this is the result......


 
more failures !!
 


 
here are 2 solutions that can prevent this from happening to you  
 
This is what we sell the most of  
its easy to install , and there are instructions on this post on how to do that-
you also need to check the condition of the cam cover gaskets as they get   hard and brittle and leak oil
 

 
and you can buy the pad kit here - and look for the cam cover gasket set as well
 
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI_Store.cgi?Product+skukey_1176755574 +944s+enginecylinderhead-944s
 
now if you pads have already worn down - of if the tensioner itself needs to be replaced - we have that too  
 

 
and that product is for sale here  
 
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI_Store.cgi?Product+skukey_1108218102
 
we also sell a lot of rebuilt twin cam cylinder heads  
for both the  2.5  cars and the  3.0  cars
 
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI_Store.cgi?Product+skukey_1124224182 +944s+enginecylinderhead-944s
 
and we also re gear cam shafts !!
 

 
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI_Store.cgi?Product+skukey_1137432312 +944s+enginecylinderhead-944s
« Last Edit: Feb 25th, 2013, 8:14am by IAN - 944ONLINE » IP Logged

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Re: When chain tensioners go bad
« Reply #1 on: Aug 9th, 2007, 10:36am »

just got this e mail in today -
 
YOU GUYS MUST CHECK YOUR PADS !!!!!
 
Opted inShockedpt In for 944 Online News
Comment.:Hello, I recently had a tensioner pad failure on my 87 944S.  The chain snapped and sheared off some of the teeth on both cam sprockets.  Also it cracked the head and broke a chunk out of the head where the tensioner mounts.  I don't know if the head can be repaired or not.  So I guess I'm looking or a head and cams, unless they can be fixed? Any info would be greatly appriciated.  Thank you for your time.
 
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Re: S AND S2 cam tensioner failure-and how to chan
« Reply #2 on: Apr 27th, 2009, 10:06am »

a NEW  " how to " FROM fORUM MEMBER -  
THANKS CHRIS FOR YOUR TIME AND EFFORT -
 
All directional references will be given from someone standing at the front of the car looking towards the back. This is written for someone with a mechanical inclination.  
 
Tools needed: tensioner pad kit, Allen wrenches, crescent wrenches, vice  
 
1. Pop of plastic fuel rail cover by undoing the 4 clips.  
 
2. Disconnect fuel lines running over back of valve cover. Suspend these out of the way (I used long rag and tied them to hood strut.  
 
3. Remove valve cover.  
 
4. Loosen the J-tube by removing the 2 bolts, one near the tensioner and one near the passenger side fender. Be very careful as you do not want to drop the washers.  
or the bolt will end up in the oil drain galley--
use shop rags or something like that to make SURE the washers and bolt DO NOT FALL WHERE THEY SHOULDN'T !!!!!!
 
 
 
 
5. Press down with your hand on the tensioner far enough to insert two nails into the holes into the back (forked) part of the tensioner to keep the tensioner compressed.  
 
6. Loosen the two bolts on the front of the tensioner and remove it.  
 
7. Position the tensioner in the vice so the tensioner will be further compressed when the vice is tightened, and so the fork is on the out side.  
 
8. Close the vice enough to get the nails out, remove the nails and slowly open the vice again until the tensioner is completely extended  
 
9. Noting the orientation of the pads, replace them the same way they were removed. (Also, maybe post pictures of their condition. I'm curious to see how worn out  some of these get. Mine were orange but in really good shape.)  
 
10. Put the tensioner back in the vice, same as before, and compress it so you can put the nails back in. Not too far though, just enough to hold the pad. you don't want them to get stuck under the chain.  
 
11. Installation is the reverse of removal... Position the tensioner, put in the two bolts, press down on the chain to relieve tension on the nails, remove them and let the tensioner come back up, re-attach J-tube. Replace all gaskets (I didnt do the plastic caps, but everything else.) Put valve cover on. Tighten bolts. Replace fuel lines and fire it up! Might take a few cycles for car to start with having had the fuel lines disconnected.  
 
and one of our members has this to add to the post -
THANKS JACOB  
 
 
Hi, camvan_s2,  
The 944 workshop manual says to put 10NM, or 7.5 Ft-Lbs of torque on the Allen Bolts for the Tensioner, the valve cover bolts, and J-tube bolt.  Everything goes to 7.5 foot pounds.    
 
A big word of caution to you; take your time when replacing the bolts for the tensioner.  The threads in the head are aluminum and are easy to cross-thread and strip, (trust me, not fun to fix that...).  Just clean the threads on the bolt before you install and take your time, don't force anything.  You should be fine if you take your time.  
 
I used blue loctite on all of the threads.    
 
Plug Caps? If you are referring to the caps that sit atop the spark plugs, they should just pull out.  Shift them from side to side and gently pull on them if they feel stuck.  
 
Be sure to replace your valve cover gaskets.  I think Ian has a kit.  
 
I hope this helps  
Jacob    
 
 
12. Go for a cruise to congratulate yourself on a job well done.  
 
 
 
« Last Edit: Apr 9th, 2011, 8:35am by IAN - 944ONLINE » IP Logged

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Re: S AND S2 cam tensioner failure-and how to chan
« Reply #3 on: Sep 10th, 2009, 7:55am »

check this as well -
thanks to JRHAMM -  
 
 
I know this is a LATE posting, but for the sake of anyone searching the forums for info: if you remove/replace/repair the tensioner, please use proper locktite compound and torque specs (15Nm I think).  I had a guy put a new tensioner in for me once and I watched as he neither used thread lock nor broke out a torque wrench.  I thought he knew what he was doing, but I realized a few years later (and 20k miles) that he was an idiot when my tensioner bolts worked their way out under hard acceleration and twisted my chain tensioner.  
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Re: S AND S2 cam tensioner failure-and how to chan
« Reply #4 on: Jan 4th, 2010, 8:20am »

well its only Jan the  4  2010
but we just got another  
 
"  
Model:944S
Year:87
Vin#:
Comment:
Just wanted to confirm that this part will fit 2.5l 16-valve as mine has a hole in it where the chain went through it.
 
gentlemen  
PLEASE take heed
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Re: S AND S2 cam tensioner failure-and how to chan
« Reply #5 on: Jan 4th, 2010, 1:48pm »

and now the afternoon of the  4 th Jan  2010
jsut had another callo for an S2  head  
why  
yes you guessed it  
a broken tensioner !!!!!!!!
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Re: S AND S2 cam tensioner failure-and how to chan
« Reply #6 on: Feb 9th, 2010, 7:23am »

and here we are Feb 9 2010 - and AGAIN  -please check your pads
 
 
Thanks Ian for your reply.
 
My son just bought his car (944S2) and had a catastrophic failure in his first month of ownership with the nylon guides snapping, the chain breaking, the tensioner cracking the head at the mounting position. All this with a FSH that showed a recently replaced belt and inspection of cams, guides and chain!
 
At the moment I believe he has most parts organised except for the tensioner. He bought a complete head gasket set, new water pump, chain, (rollers were newly replaced) etc. While the original tensioner didn't break it seems like good sense to replace the whole unit ie  
944 105 049 01.
 
I noticed in my searches that on a Rennlist forum you had a sale which included the complete unit for $350.
 
I realise that the sale ended Friday at 5pm. As you can appreciate our times are different to yours and we only came across the advert on our Saturday.
 
Is the item a genuine Porsche part, OEM part or after-market part? Would you still sell it for the sale price you advertised?
 
Does the complete unit come already equipped with the nylon guides or are these an extra?
 
Delivery times as you explained are no problem.
 
A firm price on item and shipping would be appreciated.
 
Thank you again for the effort you have made to help.
 
Regards,
 
Rudi
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Re: S AND S2 cam tensioner failure-and how to chan
« Reply #7 on: Jul 8th, 2010, 2:38pm »

Just installed the tensioner pads I ordered and it took me around an hour.  You can pull the valve cover without breaking the fuel lines!  My car has 45k miles and the old pads had two little grooves from the chain but nothing bad.  The plastic had turned brown from age submerged in oil.  I also could tell the old pads were harder then the new pads so they were getting brittle.  The pads they sell are the same pads (manufacture) that were on the factory tensioner all the markings were the same.  Very easy job so don't over analize it just do it so you won't be sorry!
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Re: S AND S2 cam tensioner failure-and how to chan
« Reply #8 on: Sep 11th, 2010, 10:46am »

more  updates on this thanks to
 
jrhamm
 
I know this is a LATE posting, but for the sake of anyone searching the forums for info: if you remove/replace/repair the tensioner, please use proper locktite compound and torque specs (15Nm I think).  I had a guy put a new tensioner in for me once and I watched as he neither used thread lock nor broke out a torque wrench.  I thought he knew what he was doing, but I realized a few years later (and 20k miles) that he was an idiot when my tensioner bolts worked their way out under hard acceleration and twisted my chain tensioner
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Re: S AND S2 cam tensioner failure-and how to chan
« Reply #9 on: Nov 19th, 2010, 9:39am »

I have more info on the  twin cam heads -
as these cars get older - and the heads get damaged and swaped from car to car  - strange things begin to happen !!
 
the cam caps are machined with the heads -  line bored so tha they match    
mis matched heads and cam capos are a no no and can cause the cam to bind in the head -
I just received a core head back from a customer that had mismatched cam / head caps - and its of NO value to me  
 
so  
this is what you need to look for  
 
see the number on the side of the head  here  

 

 
that number - in this instance - 21 - is also stamped onto all the cam caps -
 


 
and this shows how the cam caps should be placed  
 
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Re: S AND S2 cam tensioner failure-and how to chan
« Reply #10 on: Dec 8th, 2010, 7:53am »

AND ANOTHER ONE BITES THE DUST !!
AS I KEEP TELLING YOU GUYS  
IT IS CHEAP INSURANCE !!!!!
 
----------------------------------------------------
 
Yes, the timing chain broke without warning (not long after I had the timing belt replaced as routine maintenance).  As a result the camshafts/valves are bent and teeth are missing, similar to the picture on your website.  It's a shame that Porsche didn't recommend inspection of this chain at regular intervals!
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Re: S AND S2 cam tensioner failure-and how to chan
« Reply #11 on: Dec 15th, 2010, 7:44am »

and yes  
ANOTHER FAILURE  
 
 
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/forum/forum.cgi?board=944S;action=displ ay;num=1288661229;start=0#8
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Re: S AND S2 cam tensioner failure-and how to chan
« Reply #12 on: Dec 21st, 2010, 9:14am »


Hi Ian and thank you for a great post about tensionerpad.
 
When I finally bought my Porsche 944S-87 with around 74 000 miles on it,  
I changed the pad with the instructions from your post, which was of great help.
 
Unfortunalty I dropped the bolt to the oil feeder and it went down a " hole" that I have no idea where it leads or how I will be able to get the bolt and washer out.  
 
Would really appreciate if you could help me on how do I get the bolt and washer out. I dont have the ability to pick out the whole engine and hope this is not necessary.
 
I have attached a picture with a arrow on the "hole" where the bolt and washer ended up.
 
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Re: S AND S2 cam tensioner failure-and how to chan
« Reply #13 on: Aug 10th, 2011, 9:45am »

and another great link here on how to do this job
 
 
 
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/forum/forum.cgi?board=9442S;action=disp lay;num=1312276094;start=0#4
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Re: S AND S2 cam tensioner failure-and how to chan
« Reply #14 on: Aug 12th, 2011, 9:17am »

ok  
more info on the  twin cam " issues "
 
see # 8 here  
 

 
well  -with age , and as its made of magnesium, they crack and fall apart
new ones are over $1200
and I have no good used ones  
 - they are ALL like this -
we now have magnesium rod and reweld them in an argon gas chamber -
in stock and ready to go $295 exchange  
 
the old  
 



 
and the new  
 



 
 
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