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 10 distributor rotor brass sleeve (Read 1280 times)
c_prowse
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distributor rotor brass sleeve
Jan 9th, 2010 at 1:22pm
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ok, when my car sputtered and died several times Sept 08 I went through trying to find the problem, had fuel, no spark. Checked the DME and the coil. I overlooked the rotor which I found was cracked on the plastic but not the contact. There was some carbon tracking so I am guessing it had a poor connection. I pulled it apart and the brass sleeve is seized to the cam shaft. I had to go out of state for the past year so it sat, now 17 months or so. I am back and trying to sort through it. I did find that the brass collar is part of the rotor and not the car. How do you get this off??? The pullers I have will not fit behind the collar. I found a site that has instructions and all it says is that the shaft must be cleaned with loctite 2556 and then loctite 640 applied before installing the new rotor. wtf? Would a cracked rotor cause the car to sputter and die several times in a row suddenly and then refuse to start again after that so I know I'm on the right track and second, How do you get the collar off. I need to get it running again so I know it's alright before I get ready to do the tbelt fiasco. Also, since the car has sat I know I need to change the oil, wd 40 the cylinders and turn over by hand before trying to start the first time. My wife moved the car via the starter so gas has prob sat in the cylinders also (yikes) I am planning on removing the cam cover and putting some fresh oil up there too before I rotate the engine... Thoughts???
  

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Cpritch12008
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Re: distributor rotor brass sleeve
Reply #1 - Jan 9th, 2010 at 7:19pm
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well the only question I can answer this time around is that you are very much correct on the thought that the rotor could cause the issues you are describing. Just here recently I was working on a mercedes with a terrible miss, but it was still driving, but when I took the cap off the rotor fell off in my hand, and today on a honda accord I had a no start due to about an 1/8th inch of contact being burned off
  

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Re: distributor rotor brass sleeve
Reply #2 - Jan 9th, 2010 at 7:26pm
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Dremel. Grin

Mine came off too and the DPO LOCTITED it on there.  I literally remove the tip and cover and dremeled it off.  Mind you it scuffed the cam piece a bit, but scratch is no biggie.  Just make sure not to mess up the tip that it sits on.  it's held in by a single allen head bolt if i recall.  People have a habit of GLUING them on there because they're afraid it'll break or something Roll Eyes
  

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c_prowse
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Re: distributor rotor brass sleeve
Reply #3 - Jan 9th, 2010 at 8:29pm
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Ya, car ran flawless until this point. I came to a light and it sputtered first then died. It restarted and I got through the light and it did it again. One more time got me into a parking lot. I was thinking fuel pump the way it was behaving. I had to get a rollback tow truck to get it home. After that it would almost start but not totally take off. I was smelling fuel so I concentrated on spark. I was not getting spark at the plugs so I went to the coil, checked out ok. Pulled the cap off and saw some carbon tracking which tells me a poor connection. Rotor looked ok except contact had some carbon also. I removed the allen set screw and pulled the rotor off and it came off with some resistance leaving the brass collar which I tapped on and pulled on to no avail. Even carefully using a wide screwdriver to pry, it would not budge. Rotor had a crack across the arm in the plastic but contact looked ok. Reflecting on this, I am betting the arm cracked and it was able to possibly flex on rotation missing it's marks enough to cause the bad connection and the carbon tracking. If the gap is slightly off it will arc I guess. Anyway, I put the battery fully charged back in the car tonight and I will change the oil and lubricate the top end tomorrow. Coolant still looks very clean and green and oil looks ok, but level is a bit high and thin due to the gas that was dumped in the cylinders when it was moved with the starter I'm guessing. Had 143-145 compression when it was parked so I'll do it again after I get it running and see if the gas washing of the cylinders did any damage. I'm thinking it will be ok...
  

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Re: distributor rotor brass sleeve
Reply #4 - Jan 9th, 2010 at 9:46pm
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You are on the right track. Buy a can of Kroil and put some round the brass sleeve in the dist. I'd put a small strip of cloth around it and put more Kroil  on the cloth. Let is set and work its stuff. Kroil works much better than PB Blaster. Tap and twist the bushing after it has set for a while. Drain out the old fuel if not already done and tap the injectors to wake them up.

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Re: distributor rotor brass sleeve
Reply #5 - Jan 10th, 2010 at 12:46pm
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I have not had a rotor off one of these before. I did not twist the sleeve because I figured there is some kind of a key to index the rotor to the shaft... If I can get vice grips on the sleeve and twist I may be able to get it off. It is not the original rotor and I am pretty sure the previous person used loctite on it. IS Bosch:) but I found instruction notes on one parts site since there is not much info on here on it and it noted using the loctite cleaner and loctite on installation... I've never heard of that before but it's possible whoever did it last did just this....
   I think premium fuel sitting for a little over a year will be fine with some stabil thrown in... Draining the tank and blowing the system out would be a pain, i'm more worried about lubricating the cylinders and valves before turning over than the fuel being a bit stale. That and any shrinkage of seals such as the oil cooler which would not show until after the engine is warmed up and maybe driven a bit. I hate letting things sit, not good... All lights work, fans, wipers ect after i put the battery back in so hopefully I avoided the corrosion gremlins.
  

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Re: distributor rotor brass sleeve
Reply #6 - Jan 11th, 2010 at 11:27pm
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ther is a set screw on the rotor did you remove it?
  

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c_prowse
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Re: distributor rotor brass sleeve
Reply #7 - Jan 12th, 2010 at 8:46pm
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You're like way back at the beginning of the post lol.....allen set screw was removed as the very first step. Just when wiggled and pulled on to remove, the plastic part came off and the brass collar stayed on the cam.... It's seized with loctite or something.....
  

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Re: distributor rotor brass sleeve
Reply #8 - Jan 16th, 2010 at 1:07am
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Oh sorry ill catch up someday. if its loctited on you can use a propane torch heat it up .doesnt take much to heat brass. then twist it to break seal.as old as this post is i cant imagine your still dealing with this anyway.
  

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c_prowse
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Re: distributor rotor brass sleeve
Reply #9 - Jan 18th, 2010 at 8:19pm
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LOL I've been busy with work and family so no, I haven't messed with it. I did spray some PB on it today as I had thirty minutes LOL. Nice to see another M3 owner on here. Be nice to have that S54 in the 944:).
  

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Re: distributor rotor brass sleeve
Reply #10 - Jan 18th, 2010 at 10:31pm
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yes its interesting how much faster 2 more cyls. can go
  

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c_prowse
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Re: distributor rotor brass sleeve
Reply #11 - Jan 19th, 2010 at 12:01pm
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lol, it is a much more efficient engine. If our 2.5 was as efficient it would be good for 260hp. Our six is only a 3.2 at 333hp. 343 for Europe. That's over 100hp per litre without forced induction. Ofcourse, a lot of that is the variable valve timing, duration and lift of double vanos, dedicated throttle butterflies at each cylinder and all the other tricks to wring it out. We're talking about a 15 year technology gap too:). 3.0 out of a 330 with a cam (ZHP) essentially would be nearly 100hp more than the 944 also and easier to get. I'll probably never do it, but the concept is interesting. Much more refined and efficient than a V8 swap and still get 25mpg.
  

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Re: distributor rotor brass sleeve
Reply #12 - Jan 19th, 2010 at 11:28pm
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was totally blown away by the price of the special oil needed for the motor BMW told me it was becuase of the wrist pin oiling problem and the long stroke that the castol oil is needed. the car is cool dont drive it much in winter leave it in the garage.have you had to replace a headlight yet 1600.00 from bimmer.
  

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Re: distributor rotor brass sleeve
Reply #13 - Jan 19th, 2010 at 11:53pm
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Got the brass sleeve off no prob...

$12.00 a quart for the TWS? ya I do the oil changes every 7500 miles myself. Get some jack pads for a 3 series and snap them in the holes under your car, they are about 7 bucks a piece. You only need one, but I put all 4 on. M does not have them because there is not a spare tire I guess. †Mercs and Porsche use expensive synthetic too. Main bearing failure was only the 2001 and the affected cars were recalled and fixed, vendor defect... Your 04 should be fine. I have not had a headlight failure yet. You might want to join (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links) it is a forum for the car with a M area also. Lots of support and tech. I bought it new and broke it in correctly and uses 0 oil between changes. Many have high oil useage from not being broken in correctly. SMG had some teething pains but other than that, I have not heard anything. There are others who use MObil, it's just a very high strung hyper engine. †Never had problems with my 2002 330ci when I had it and my mom has a 2001 330i and dad a 2001 740Li all been good and the 7 has 200k now (with original Xenon). The only problem I've had with the M is the GPS receiver freaked out. I do not have nav, but the assist system uses a receiver and since it is tied to my bluetooth, I noticed it. Warranty covered it. I put angel eyes in it which took modifying the liners since the bi-xenon is auto leveling and is wired through the ECM so it's all automatic. Also added the Euro rear fog light and nothing pissed off my headlamps. I do know that flashing them often will shorten the life, that is why the flash to pass is in the inner socket where the highbeam used to be before bi-xenon. I think your lamp failure was a fluke. You hope so anyways right?
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« Last Edit: Jan 20th, 2010 at 1:24am by c_prowse »  

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Dawgz83948
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Re: distributor rotor brass sleeve
Reply #14 - Jan 20th, 2010 at 9:19am
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Quote:
Got the brass sleeve off no prob...

$12.00 a quart for the TWS? ya I do the oil changes every 7500 miles myself. Get some jack pads for a 3 series and snap them in the holes under your car, they are about 7 bucks a piece. You only need one, but I put all 4 on. M does not have them because there is not a spare tire I guess. †Mercs and Porsche use expensive synthetic too. Main bearing failure was only the 2001 and the affected cars were recalled and fixed, vendor defect... Your 04 should be fine. I have not had a headlight failure yet. You might want to join (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links) it is a forum for the car with a M area also. Lots of support and tech. I bought it new and broke it in correctly and uses 0 oil between changes. Many have high oil useage from not being broken in correctly. SMG had some teething pains but other than that, I have not heard anything. There are others who use MObil, it's just a very high strung hyper engine. †Never had problems with my 2002 330ci when I had it and my mom has a 2001 330i and dad a 2001 740Li all been good and the 7 has 200k now (with original Xenon). The only problem I've had with the M is the GPS receiver freaked out. I do not have nav, but the assist system uses a receiver and since it is tied to my bluetooth, I noticed it. Warranty covered it. I put angel eyes in it which took modifying the liners since the bi-xenon is auto leveling and is wired through the ECM so it's all automatic. Also added the Euro rear fog light and nothing pissed off my headlamps. I do know that flashing them often will shorten the life, that is why the flash to pass is in the inner socket where the highbeam used to be before bi-xenon. I think your lamp failure was a fluke. You hope so anyways right?


I like that year M3, I can't wait until they are in the $25k range so I can buy a convertable version.
  

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