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Cam Housing gasket replacement w/ PICTURES (Read 928 times)
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Cam Housing gasket replacement w/ PICTURES
Feb 26th, 2010 at 7:57am
Ok, I took the liberty of trying to document everything i had to do and went through, in changing the Cam Tower gasket and rear cam tower gasket on my 1986 (really a 85.5) N/A 944 8V. This job should have only taken me a couple days MAX if I had ALL the right tools and materials for the job, but i didnt, and the job ended up taking me over a week. Let me tell ya, waiting on stuff to come in the mail can be very frustrating, as i had to wait 4 days alone just on the timing belt tensioner pully wrench, grrrr, . Anyways, i took A LOT of pictures, because there just isnt enough pictures on this job else where, however plenty of info can be found right here in the tech section or on, and if you cant find it at either location, then dont be afraid to ask a question on the forum, because thats what we're all here for. This is partly educational. I started the pictures just after i had removed the fuel rail and found TDC (Top Dead Center) of the motor. Enjoy.

The injectors might be very difficult to get out if they have never been out before. Have a rag on hand because you might have an injector or two stay in the intake when it comes out, so gas from the fuel rail will spill all over the place. Spray a little WD40 at the base of the injectors to loosen the dry seals in the socket

the picture below shows TDC minus 10 degrees or anti clockwise 1-1.5 cam sprocket teeth

I also marked the timing belt with a paint pen so that i knew exactly where TDC was on the original belt location on the cam sprocket

In this photo below, is the bottom of the bellhousing, which you will/should check to make sure you're at TDC. There will be a notch in the side of the Flywheel you can see through this opening. You cant see here it because im already 1.5 cam shaft teeth minus TDC

here is the timing belt guide rail (only on updated water pump) and the guide pully. Need to remove these so that you can get in there and check the timing belt tension with the "Kriket". you can order it from the 944online catelog

the next two pictures below are of the old gasket which will most likely be very well pressed on the top of the head. Be very cautious of scratching the surface of the head because it is very soft aluminum

give the bottom of the cam tower a good cleaning as well. You want good mating surfaces when you put it all back together

Aaaahhhh, the lifters. Ok, upon removing the cam tower, pulling the bolts you should do in an even pattern, allowing the housing come up evenly with the valve springs pushing it up. Once all the bolts are out of the cam tower, it will be sitting roughly a quarter inch up. Be VERY carefull removing the cam housing! A second set of hands will be very usefull in this step. DONT LET THE LIFTERS FALL OUT! It is very hard to pull the cam housing off while keeping the lifters in it. Have a friend stand by, as when you pull the cam housing up, the lifters want to fall out. Keep your hand underneath to catch the lifters as they fall out, remembering which hole they fell out of, so that your buddy can line them up on a clean rag on a flat surface in the EXACT position they came out of the cam housing.

Upon reinstallation of the lifters and cam housing, soak the lifters in clean oil so they dont bind going back in the housing. I used one strip on scotch tape per two lifters, wrapped arond the cam housing, holding the lifters in place when putting the cam housing back on. then when its just sitting on there, you can one by one, remove the strips of tape, for a very easy installation of the cam housing and lifters.

Have the cam housing all degreased and dry, ready to start painting. After hitting it with degreaser, its really good to rinse it off using a soapy water spray. You do not have to paint if you dont want to. this is something i decided to do my self

Here is a very clean surface to now put the new gasket on

Finally have the cam housing back on and bolted down nice and tight. On a side note, as a good way to ensure bolts will thread back in nicely, soak them all in degreaser before putting them back in. Its a good and safe proceedure to separate and label where the bolts all came from too. use some plastic dissposable cups, like picnic cups or something like that.

Here i have the timing belt back on in its original position, HOWEVER, when you put the cam tower back on, the cam will naturally go back on at TDC, which is fine. Once you have it bolted back down, use something to turn the cam back to the position you pulled it off at.

here i freshend up the look of the AFM. I also took the cover off the bottom and reset the connectors on the contact strip inside. Heres a good video on how to do it:

Finally got the fuel rail put back on. Things are starting to come back together now

I finally got it done the day after i took this last photo, and every thing runs good. Photo bucket was giving me problems with uploading the pictures i took of it all together. Sorry. Hope this all helps a bit
« Last Edit: Feb 26th, 2010 at 12:48pm by IAN - 944ONLINE »  

85.5 5spd,LSD,Full Sachs Clutch Kit,Throttle Cam,Bursch Header, catless, Borla muffler, back-lit gauges,Bilstein rear shocks,KYB strut inserts, Strut Brace, 944online PRFM chip, 15' factory BBS's and 16" D90's,rebuilt motor,reworked head,turbo valve springs,raised compression,WebCam grind #274
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