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944 85/2 And Later Control Arm Ball Joint Rebuild (Read 1966 times)
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944 85/2 And Later Control Arm Ball Joint Rebuild
Apr 7th, 2009 at 1:13pm
 
Ball Joint Rebuild
By Forum Member TexasBlake


Here is the ball joint kit that I received from www.944online.com. This kit is the track/performance kit which includes bronze bushings.

http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI_Store.cgi?Product+skukey_1236272227


I would recommend that anyone install this kit instead of the cheaper kit without the bronze bushings.


http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI_Store.cgi?Product+skukey_1111168696


If you're going to go through the trouble of taking your control arms apart, you might as well install the best parts possible.

IF you don't want to do the rebuild the arms yourself -
you can buy them allready done on an exchange basis-
and with either the bronze or the less expensive kit -

UP TO 86 -

http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI_Store.cgi?Product+skukey_1001696

ALL 87 and later

http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI_Store.cgi?Product+skukey_1001697



Here you can see the ball joint.  Needless to say, it is pretty trashed. It was extremely loose inside the control arm. The boot is torn, which indicates that the internals have not seen any grease in quite some time.



The bottom plate of the ball joint has a coat of epoxy over it. This is just a moisture barrier. You'll need to scrape this off to get access to the circlip that holds the ball joint bottom plate on. Use a small chisel or flat head screw driver to remove as much of it as possible.



The circlip that holds the ball joint together should now be accessible. Make sure there is no more epoxy around that circlip, or it might not come out. If you can get the circlip out, remove it. If you can't get the circlip out, or don't even want to attempt to, use the following optional steps.



OPTIONAL STEP 1
I couldn't get the circlip out of the control arm, so I took a further step. I used a dremel to cut a small notch between the two circlip ends. After the notch was cut, I rotated the circlip around a bit to where the end of the circlip was in front of the notch.



OPTIONAL STEP 2
I was able to get my smallest flat head screwdriver behind the circlip. Push against the circlip, and the end of it should pop out.



Work the circlip out of the groove by working it around in a circle until it finally pops completely out. Save the circlips! The ball joint kit comes with new spiral retaining rings, which I am not fond of.



When the circlip pops out, the ball joint assembly should be able to pull out easily. You'll soon see the condition of your ball joints. Most likely, your 20+ year old ball joints will look just as terrible as mine.



Take the pieces out of your 944 Online ball joint kit. Get a feel for what each piece is. Here is how they will be assembled inside the control arm.



Insert the upper bronze bushing inside the control arm in the following orientation. The smaller diameter side should be inserted into the control arm first.



You should be able to push the upper bronze bushing all the way down with your hands. If it won't go all the way down, don't worry. It will compress down later on whenever you compress the ball joint assembly with the C clamp.



Coat the new ball joint with the grease, and drop it behind the brass bushing.



Drop the lower bushing in next with the pointy side facing up.



Drop the O-ring in place. Make sure it sits on the lip inside the control arm.



Drop the spring in place with the pointy side facing up.



Put the retaining plate on top of everything. Try to get it as level and centered as possible. We'll be compressing everything down.



Place a large socket on the bottom side of the control arm. The ball joint needs to fit inside the socket. I used a deep 22mm. Tighten a C clamp with the other end on the retaining plate.



Compress the C clamp until the retaining plate is underneath the circlip ring. If the bearing plate is not low enough, the circlip won't go back in.



Feed in one side of the old circlips and begin working it around inside the groove. The notch you cut earlier with the dremel will help with this.



When the circlip is in place, remove the C clamp and install the grease zerk with cap. Don't forget to rotate the circlip so the ends are far away from the notch (unlike in this picture).





To install the boots, you will have to turn them inside out. The boot on the left is how they should come in the package. The one on the right is turned inside out.



Use your finger and apply grease to the areas that the boot will cover.



Place the boot turned inside out over the ball joint (right control arm). Push it down as far as it will go. Then flip the boot over and it should pop down over the lip of the control arm (control arm on left)



Open up the epoxy and mix a small amount inside each control arm. Be careful not to put so much in as it will go up to the grease zerk. Let epoxy dry.



« Last Edit: Apr 11th, 2012 at 12:57pm by IAN - 944ONLINE »  

Steven Manfre Sales Manager 1501 nw 22nd ct  #10 Pompano Beach,Fl 33069 Toll Free 866-944-7883 Local 954-968-3766 www.944online.com
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Re: 944 85/2 And Later Control Arm Ball Joint Rebu
Reply #1 - Oct 12th, 2012 at 7:05pm
 
and some pictures of what NON REBUILDABLE arms look like !!!!!


http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/forum/forum.cgi?board=944Talk;action=display;nu...
  

e mail&&ian@944online.com&&phone&&toll free in the USA 1 866 944 7883&&outside the USA&&1 954 968 3766&&FAX -1 954 968 3798
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