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Clutch Cylinder Replacement (Read 3358 times)
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Clutch Cylinder Replacement
Jun 25th, 2007 at 2:44am
Make sure you have all the parts and tools you need for a complete installation.  If you have to replace one of the clutch cylinders, it wouldn’t hurt to replace the other cylinder and the hydraulic line as well.  

Here's the link to the parts side of the site with all the pieces you will need -

Rather than going for an OEM hydraulic line, I opted for an Earl’s -4 AN Speedflex Stainless Braided line.  This required a few other fittings to make it all work, all of which are noted in the picture.


1. In the drivers compartment at the clutch pedal, find the cylinder boot and push rod where it is attached to the pedal.  Remove the retainer clip at the push rod and remove the push rod from the cylinder boot.  

2. First, you’ll have to move a bunch of hoses and things out of the way.  Your clutch master cylinder is hiding below all of that mess.  

Remove the fluid feed line from the cylinder and the brake reservoir (both hydraulic systems share the same reservoir).  Then, remove the clutch hydraulic line that runs to the slave cylinder.  There are two 13mm nuts holding the cylinder onto the firewall.  

A swivel socket adapter and/or wobble socket adapters will make these a lot easier to get off and on and are well worth the money.  Remove the cylinder.  3. Installation is the reverse of removal.


1. You need to remove the starter in order to get to your clutch slave cylinder.  Be sure to disconnect the negative terminal on your battery before removing the starter.  There are two 19mm bolts holding it on.  Be sure to remember which bolt goes where because they are two different lengths.  

Use something (like zip-ties) to hold the starter out of your way as the slave cylinder is directly above it.

2. Disconnect the hydraulic line from the cylinder and make sure you don’t get any of the fluid in your eyes.  Remove the two 13mm bolts that hold the slave cylinder in place and remove the cylinder.  Installation is the reverse of removal.  Be sure to complete the clutch master / slave installation completely (including bleeding the clutch line with new fluid) before reinstalling the starter.    


There are two straps that hold the clutch hydraulic line in place.  One can be reached from underneath the car, and the other is clearly visible in the engine bay.  Remove both straps and then remove the hydraulic line.  If you install a new OEM hydraulic line, good luck getting it in place.  I figured I’d use the flex line to make the install easier on myself.  

I got lucky with the clearance of the master cylinder with the fittings as it all barely fit in the space provided.  Install the fluid feed line (I used some leftover -6 AN stainless braided line and a couple -6 Econo Clamps).

« Last Edit: Sep 26th, 2009 at 2:11pm by IAN - 944ONLINE »  
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